Pogopins difference

I ordered a batch of new pogopin connectors at the same supplier where I bought the first batch, sadly I noticed the new batch is slightly different size and swapped magnet orientation. So if you get those connectors for your ammo clips and blasters, get enough in ONE batch. I’ll add a modified version of the printable files soon.


Yes it has been a while since my last post however here is the first package with all the required data for the ammo clips.

ATTAG Frammo V1.3

First I started with blue clips and quickly found out that the light of the LED almost can’t pass the material. So I have picked yellow, also because it is easier to find in case you drop it when you are in a match. And I tried it with flying wires. Of course you can do it, but I can not recommend it because at the end the PCB aren’t really expensive at all and the money you invest in them you save on the wires you don’t require then.

So I opened fritzing and created a PCB (layout and link in the above file) and ordered a stack of them. Please don’t mind the circuit view in fritzing the soldering is pretty self-explaining in the pictures you see here.

Use the small display lift as you see in this picture:

Print as many of the cases as you need:

Solder like this:

Basically just GND,VCC,SC and SDA and the resistor for the LED. Soldering the pogopin connector is a bit tricky because the magnets attract the tip of the soldering iron but it is doable. Positive pin of the LED to the lower connection to the edge.

There you go, your stack of FRAMmo

By the way, all of this isn’t really required to make ATTAG work at the end, it is a nice addon and SOME game modes will require them. However, a cheaper way is to just leave the display out of them. The ammo left will be shown on the blaster display anyway. This here is just a fancy addon. I’ll add a case version without display window at a later point.

Last but not least, if you mess up your electronics or health by trusting in my work – your problem. No warranties given.